Sumac – A Syrian Food Journey

With an inspiring new work, “Sumac” the cookbook by Anas Atassi, the author hopes to use food to build a bridge between Syrian culture and the rest of the world.

Once upon a time Syria was at the top of my travel wish-list. I’ve long held a passion for Middle Eastern food and the food of Syria in particular is generally held in high esteem. Of course the possibility of travel to Syria is, sadly, long gone but this important culinary tradition is being maintained, preserved and shared as émigré Syrians, exiled from their homes, scatter throughout the world. Sumac , the cookbook by Anas Atassi (RRP $49.99, but only $37.75 if you use this link) is a fine example of the kind of culinary deliciousness to be expected from this ancient and sophisticated food culture.

Now living in Amsterdam, Atassi was born in Homs, and his cookbook is fired by his family recipes, stories, celebrations and their memories of loved ones in Syria. His personal stories in “Sumac” were the inspiration for the dishes in between its covers. The lost days of breakfasts in his grandmother’s garden, his mothers meals,  the family parties to mark weddings, births and graduations that he remembers from childhood summers spent in Homs are what underpins the food in this book, with each recipe firmly grounded in memory.

Using the food of his people, and dotted with personal anecdotes, Anas Atassi hopes this cookbook will “… build a bridge between Syrian culture and the rest of the world, with food as the common denominator.” The inclusion of lots of family photos bring a warmth to this cookbook, which is richly evocative of times and places gone by. The recipes are totally accessible and offer a glimpse into the deep historical roots of this important culinary culture.

And through it all is the “red thread’ of sumac the ubiquitous deep red spice which connects each dish.

The recipes include casual dishes, side dishes, main meals and lots of lovely flat-bread snacks and light meals. I can’t go past any chicken recipe with North African or  Middle Eastern flavours, so I made Red Bulgur bi Jara – ‘dirty’ bulgar with roast chicken – to much acclaim last night, although I had substitute red rice when the local supermarket failed me in the bulgur department. This tasty, (almost) one-pot dish will be a regular on our table.

 

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