Majorelle Garden, Marrakech – A Rhapsody in Blue

It’s an exciting city, but life can be tricky for the tourist on the streets of Marrakech. The traffic is chaotic – both four-wheeled and four-legged, the footpaths often non-existent and navigation can be challenging – to say the least. The minute the confused traveller stops to take out his map to orientate himself he’s a marked man (or woman) and easy prey for the many charming and “helpful” local chancers who are only too pleased to help guide you. Of course, where they will guide you to is another matter entirely.

It was our first day in Marrakech and we were headed for a spot we had been promised was an oasis of peace and beauty in the middle of the city, the Majorelle Garden. This 12 acre garden is a much visited part of Marrakech and well worth the effort it may take you to find it. Designed by French artist Jacques Majorelle in the 1920′ and 30’s, it fell into disrepair after his death and was bought and beautifully restored by fashion designer Yves St Laurent and his partner in 1980. St Laurent adored the garden and when he died his ashes were scattered here and a striking memorial was erected.

Stopping outside of the medina to get our bearings we were immediately approached by a delightful young man who was keen to help. Unfortunately, he informed us, the garden was closed today, but he could take us to a wonderful alternative spot which we would love. He was persistent in the face of our refusals, following us for many blocks and trying to engage my increasingly irritated husband in amiable chat. Apparently the usual ploy is that you are guided to the wonderful alternative which will be (surprise, surprise) closed and you will be (again with the surprise) completely lost. However your helpful new best friend will help you find your way back for a small fee. We weren’t buying it, although I felt a little sorry for him – after all, everyone needs to make a living.

Rather cleverly, we navigated our way to Majorelle Garden under our own steam, relieved to step into such a peaceful space after dodging motor bikes, cars, trucks and donkeys all the way there. The garden features long shaded paths, lush groves of bamboo and palms, plantations of rare succulents, cooling water in the form of many channels, pools and fountains and the most glorious and distinctive shade of blue paintwork on all of the walls and buildings. Known as Majorelle blue, this exceptional shade of cobalt blue is almost impossible to source elswhere, but can be purchased in the (pricey) gift store on the premises.

Nestled in the heart of the garden is a museum featuring a beautifully curated collection of historic Berber artefacts – none of which we could photograph due to stern signs and vigilant security staff. There is also an outrageously expensive gift shop where you can purchase overpriced memorabilia, including tins of the iconic blue paint, and a delightful tea shop which is the perfect spot to relax and take a cup or two of mint tea. Here, like me, you might like to take the time to ponder the wisdom of just having bought a couple of tins of paint and wonder how on earth you will get them home intact in your luggage.

All of the images in this post were taken by my daughter Maeve, who kindly stepped in to help while I was in a shoulder-to-fingers plaster.

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